DevilCraft Gotanda

One minute out of JR Gotanda's west exit, up to the ninth and top floor of the building with the Natural Lawson, where the seating side is glazed from end to end. DevilCraft Gotanda runs 18-odd taps, nearly all of them from DevilCraft's own brewery in Shinagawa, with an American guest beer and a cider. Most beers come as a 260ml half or a 473ml US pint, so you can work through the board without committing; the strongest are poured in 200ml and 300ml glasses.

The food is the reason to book a table rather than stand: Chicago deep-dish pizza, a small feeding one or two and a large two to four. It takes about 30 minutes to bake, up to an hour at the evening peak, so order it with your first beer. Detroit-style square pizza is the newer addition, large only and made in limited numbers. Waffle fries and buffalo wings are the right things to eat while you wait.

The ten counter seats and the standing space are first come, first served; tables are a two-hour slot and can be booked online. Staff speak English and Japanese. Non-smoking, with a smoking room.